Each morning at 5:30am, hundreds of saffron robed monks come out to walk the streets and receive alms. It's a silent procession. It's so eerily quiet that I had to get off my bike and push because I was so conscious of my squeaky brakes. It's a magical time in Luang Prabang, as the morning mist is lifting and the cockerels are crowing (thought they often start before 5.30am...)
There are around 33 temples in Luang Prabang, so almost every street you looked down, there was a steady stream of monks.
Local people line the streets, each wearing a scarf over their left shoulder. There is quite a strict etiquette and you are not allowed to make any eye-contact with the monks during the ceremony. Women have to kneel, men and children, it seems, are allowed to stand. The monks are only allowed to eat the food given to them each day. They receive offerings of sticky rice, bananas, and other food goods.
Unlike other countries, becoming a monk isn't a lifetime calling. Traditionally, all boys are expected to spend some time as a monk. A lot of boys become monks when they are quite young, often to escape the poverty cycle. As a monk, you get free food and access to education. Young monks are called 'novices', and cannot call himself a monk until he is 20. We've met a few at temples, and they are always keen to practise their English with us.
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| Happy with his food |
We were pretty exhausted after getting up at 5:30am, so we took refuge in a bakery for coffee and pastries. It was opposite a temple, so we were able to watch the monks doing what seemed like their daily chores...sweeping, cutting the grass with machetes (as you do) and generally doing tasks required for the upkeep of the temple.
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| Hard at work |
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